Made to Measure
Zaharoff offers fine tailored bespoke and made-to-measure clothing for that perfect fit.
- Chest piece is basted in horizontally. Enabling us to hand work during pressing to mold the proper shape into the garment while removing fullness front the chest.
- Sewing and pressing techniques used at the shoulder seam allow for proper pressing and shaping of the sleeve head. This creates a trimmer fitting garment which has the same comfort the customer has had in a fuller fitting garment.
- A unique setting of the shoulder pad allows for a softer, suppler shoulder.
- A support tape along the top of shoulder seam which gives more structure to the shoulder line.
- Once piece collar improves the shape and drape of the collar.
- All sleeves have been prepared for surgeon cuffs. Extra fabric has been added enabling to add a surgeon cuff if needed.
- Imitation sleeve buttonholes.
- Inside pockets include regular and cell pocket.
- All patch pockets are fully lined, making them sensuous to the hand and cosmetically more attractive.
- Light-weight canvas chest piece for a soft, luxurious handle.
- All buttons on coats and trousers are cross-stiched. This makes for a more European look and adds strength.
- 4 sleeve buttons on suits and sportscoats.
A: Tape placed right before lapel curve – the point at which the lapel curves should have a “bounce” to it, it should look effortless instead of it being “folded” or forced. Companies force the lapel by ironing it (a big no-no).
Full floating canvas chest piece (A, B, C, D, E) – provides comfort and ease of movement. It is called “floating” because it is attached to the fabric of the suit with horse hair. Horse hair is hollow so it wicks away moisture and sweat beads. Pretty incredible!
B: Chest piece stabilizer (Chest tape) – to keep the chest piece in place, stabilize the upper body in order it to mold to the wearer’s chest.
C: Front of the garment is stabilized using the finest quality woven interfacing available – ensures a smooth and wrinkle-free front. The key word is “stabilize” and “wrinkle-free”. This is important when you get your suit back from the cleaners and there’s ripples, the collar has shrunken, etc.
D: Felt chest piece. This is made out of cotton and over time, it contours to the wearers actual body. On the underside, the horse hairs connect from this piece and wicks out moisture from the other end – the fabric of the suit.
E: More on chest pieces – the white/beige “E” is canvas material. When you hear someone say a suit is “half-canvas” or “full canvas”… if the suit jacket was a full-canvas, the entire front would have been covered in canvas instead of half…hence this jacket above is a half-canvas jacket. For me, personally, a full canvas doesn’t do anything but add bulk…some may think otherwise.
F: 7/8 seam allowance on centre back and side seams – for generous alteration. This is a huge deal because some companies do not do this to cut costs. This allows a jacket to be altered hundreds of times without affecting the integrity of the jacket.
G: Satin tape along the entire edge of suit – notice it is stitched on, NOT glued. Most companies save money by using interfacing instead; yes they glue the edges. You walk out of the store with a “perfect” suit….the moment it is taken to the cleaners and the edges are pressed, the glue is heat-activated. When the strip dries, it ruins the original integrity and you are left with ripples, puckering, shrinkage, etc. The tape assures no matter how much heat is applied, you will get a beautiful edge for years and years.
H: Ah, the pockets…notice two things. See the white thread going through the right side? That keeps the pockets in place. You would think that would be easy, but companies cut that corner…again dry cleaners – without that thread, the pockets get pressed wherever they are at the time of pressing.
H: Notice another thing, the pockets are sewn in a curve. That costs more too…but the odds of getting a hole in them have lessened greatly as well.
I: Padded canvas on undercollar – provides a well-fitting collar with a constant fit throughout the life of the garment.
I: Collar (and the sleeves) are attached after the body of the coat is complete – making it easier for alterations
J: Canvas lapel – the little sliver you see in the picture extends to the entire length of the lapel and is part of the chest piece to give a beautiful, tailored look.
K: Internal taping of the armhole – to control the shaping of the shoulder and armhole. Again, this is a great benefit when the suit comes back from the dry cleaners.
L: Mitred breast pocket and concealed tacking – to provide a neat finish to the outside pocket. Speaking of pockets, we put quality pocketing throughout to enhance the softness of tailoring. Document, passport and cell phone pockets are provided inside with a button enclosure for security.
Some other benefits not pictured:
Lining: One of the most important aspects of the suit, the lining is made from bemberg silk, the best fabric for lining, to ensure long wearability and comfort. Coat linings are generously pleated in the back for comfort and the suit trouser is also front lined to the knee for easy movement and wearability.
110 East Oak Street
Chicago, IL 60611
Phone: +1.312.285.2100Email: VIP@zaharoff.com